Day 1, Monday February 24: Airport to my home on Kiligolf
I had my two Norwegian friends Jørgen and Ken visiting for a 2 week Usambara trip. They came with Ethiopian that lands at a pleaseant time midday. We drove home and the boys relaxed a little before we started a walk on Kiligolf in the afternoon. Here are some of the birds we registered: Reichenow´s Seedeater, Village Indigobird, Grey-headed Kingfisher, African Grey Flycatcher, Helmeted Guineafowl, Laughing Dove, African Palm Swift, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Pied Wagtail, Winding and Red-faced Cisticola, Bronze Mannikin, Barn Swallow, Chinspot Batis, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Yellow-fronted Canary, Wire-tailed Swallow, Vitelline Masked Weaver, Variable Sunbird, Long-tailed Fiscal, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Ring-necked Dove, Squacco Heron, Grey Heron, Black-headed Heron, White-browed Coucal, Black-crowned Night Heron, European Bee-eater, Spectackled Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Tropical Boubou, Diederik Cuckoo, Green Sandpiper, Greater Painted Snipe, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Spotted Flycatcher, Cardinal Woodpecker, Three-banded Plover, Red-billed Firefinch, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, Yellow Bishop, Speckled and Blue-naped Mousebird, Red-chested Cuckoo, White-browed Scrub Robin, Black-backed Puffback, African Grey Hornbill, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Rattling Cisticola, Buff-bellied Warbler and Gabar Goshawk. We returned home, freshened up, had a nice meal and retired early to bed.
One picture from Day 1:
Greater Painted Snipe, Rostratula benghalensis
Day 2, Tuesday, February 25: Kiligolf – Sakila Hills Wetlands – Kiligolf
We took a morning walk on Kiligolf. Here are some of the birds we registered: Bare-eyed Thrush, Western House Martin, Little Swift, Nubian Woodpecker, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Lesser Striped Swallow, Purple Grenadier, Golden-breasted Bunting, Red-headed Weaver, Green-winged Pytilia, Violet-backed Starling, Long-tailed Paradise Whydah, Bateleur!, Brubru, Willow Warbler, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Village Weaver, Giant Kingfisher, Hamerkop, Brown-breasted Barbet, Pied Kingfisher, Black-and-white Mannikin, African Emerald Cuckoo, Magpie Shrike, Hadada Ibis, Yellow-billed Egret, Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow and House Sparrow. We had now completed our loop and had returned to my house for breakfast. We had a nice breakfast and went to the Wetlands near Sakila Hills. Here are some of the species we registered there: African Jacana, Blacksmith Lapwing, Western Cattle Egret, Yellow-billed Stork, African Sacred Ibis, White-backed Duck, Little Grebe, Northern Wheatear, African Pipit, White-faced Whistling Duck, Western Yellow Wagtail and Common Moorhen. We drove towards Usa River and stopped for Taveta Weaver. Other “new” birds registered at the Weaver site and on our way home included Amethyst Sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Augur Buzzard and Yellow-billed Kite. We took and afternoon walk on Kiligolf without adding any new species to our Kiligolf list. Back at the house, we freshened up, had dinner and as usual retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 2
Variable Sunbird, Female, Cinnyris venustus
Yellow-billed Egret, Ardea brachyryncha
Grey Heron, Ardea cinerea
Grey-headed Kingfisher, Halcyon leucocephala
African Sacred Ibis, Threskiornis aetiopicus
Taveta Weaver, Ploceus castaneiceps, Endemic to N Tanzania and S Kenya
Day 3, Wednesday, February 26: Kiligolf – Lark Plains – Oldonyo Sambo – Lengijave – Kiligolf
We had an early start and were at the turnoff to the Lark Plains around 07:40. On the way to the Beesley´s Lark spot, we registered amongst others these birds: Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Kori Bustard, Fawn-coloured Lark, Capped Wheatear, Red-capped Lark, Taita Fiscal, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Montague´s Harrier and Beesley´s Lark. On the way to the dry Acacia Forest, we also added: Sentinel Lark, Somali Short-toed Lark, Short-tailed Lark, White-bellied Canary, Fischer´s Sparrow-Lark, Isabelline Wheatear, Common Rock Thrush, Southern Grosbeak Canary, Red-tailed Shrike, Gorgeous Sunbird, Crowned Lapwing and Kenya Sparrow. We had breakfast at our normal breakfast spot. After breakfast we explored the dry Acacia Forest and found amongst others: Grey-capped Social Weaver, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Red-throated Tit, Pied Wheatear, Hildebrandt´s Starling, Banded Parisoma, Red-fronted Prinia, Red-faced Crombec, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Pygmy Falcon, Red-fronted Barbet and Bare-eyed Thrush. We drove slowly towards Oldonyo Sambo and picked up: Temminck´s Courser, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, and Brown Snake Eagle. We stopped in Oldonyo Sambo and dipped on our only target bird there: Little Rock Thrush. We continued onwards towards Lengijave and recorded: Common Kestrel, White-fronted Bee-eater, Red-billed Quelea, Singing Cisticola, Northern Fiscal, Baglafecht Weaver, Abyssinian (Schalow´s) Wheatear, Brown-throated Martin, Eurasian Hoopoe, African Red-rumped Swallow, Golden-backed Weaver, Bronze Sunbird, Lyne´s Cisticola and Streaky Seedeater. We returned to my house.
Some pictures from Day 3:
Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Telophorus cruentus, Endemic to NE Africa
Beesley´s Lark, Chersomanes beesleyi, Endemic to a small area North of Arusha, Tanzania
Short-tailed Lark, Spizocorys freemantlii, Endemic to NE Africa
Fischer´s Sparrow-Lark, Eremopterix leucopareia
White-bellied Go-away-bird, Crinifer leucocaster, Endemic to NE Africa
Pygmy Falcon, Polihierax semitorquatus
Bare-eyed Thrush, Turdus tephronotus, Endemic to NE Africa
Gorgeous Sunbird, Cinnyris Melanogastrus
White-fronted Bee-eater, Juvenile, Merops bullockoides
Singing Cisticola, Cisticola cantans
Bronze Sunbird, Nectarina kilimensis
View from Lengijave towards Ngorongoro. My friends from Norway in the background
View from Lengijave, note my car at the bottom of the hill.
Abyssinian Wheatear, Oenanthe lugubris, Race Schalowi
Day 4, Thursday, February 27: Kiligolf – Tarangire – Karatu.
We had again an early start and was inside Tarangire National Park around 08:30: Here are some of the birds we registered: Northern White-crowned Shrike, Lilac-breasted Roller, Red-necked Spurfowl, Von der Decken´s Hornbill, Yellow-collared Lovebird, Red-backed Shrike, Black-winged Kite, Buff-crested Bustard, Black-bellied Bustard, D´Arnaud´s Barbet, African Harrier-Hawk, Egyptian Goose, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Namaqua Dove, Knob-billed Duck, Martial Eagle, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Speckle-fronted Weaver, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Swahili Sparrow, Spur-winged Goose, Woodland Kingfisher, Grey Crowned Crane and Ashy Starling. We had now reached our breakfast spot. We had a quick breakfast and was soon on our way again. More birds were added: Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Chestnut Weaver, Common Greenshank, Glossy Ibis, Collared Pratincole, Wood Sandpiper, Little Egret, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Grey Kestrel, Little Bee-eater, Wattled Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Marsh Sandpiper, Little Stint, Double-banded Courser, Three-banded Courser and Bronze-winged Courser! Three Coursers in a row and the first time I have seen a Bronze-winged Courser in Tarangire and only the second time I have seen a Three-banded Courser! We continued and added Lappet-faced Vulture, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Southern Ground Hornbill, Pangani Longclaw, White-bellied Bustard, Desert Cisticola and Common Ostrich. We were now back at the gate, had lunch and took pictures of African and White-browed Sparrow Weaver. We stopped at a wetland just before the main road and got Southern Red Bishop, Wood Sandpiper, Reichenow´s Seedeater and Abdim´s Stork. We continued to Karatu and arrived in good time.
Some pictures from Day 4:
Red-backed Shrike, Lanius collurio
White-backed Vulture, Gyps africanus
Martial Eagle, Polemaetus bellicosus
African Pygmy Kingfisher, Ispidina picta
Grey Kestrel, Falco ardosiaceus
Double-banded Courser, Rhinoptilus africanus
Three-banded Courser, Rhinoptilus cinctus
Bronze-winged Courser, Rhinoptilus chalcopterus
Cheetah, Acininyx jubatus
Red-and-yellow Barbet, Reachyphonus erythrocephalus
Ashy Starling, Lamprotornis unicolor, Endemic to Tanzania and S Kenya
African Cuckoo, Cuculus gularis
African Cuckoo, Female, Cuculus gularis
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Plocepasser mahali
Southern Red Bishop, Euplectes orix
Wood Sandpiper, Tringa glareola
Reichenow´s Seedeater, Chritagra reichenowi, Endemic to NE Africa
Abdim´s Stork, Ciconia abdimii
Three young handsome Norwegians resting outside the guesthouse in Karatu.
Day 5, Friday, February 28: Endoro Trail, Karatu – Lake Eluanata, Nanja – Kiligolf
We had some more time that day since it is only 5 Km from the Guest House to the start of the Endoro Trail. We started birding around 07:30 and here are some of the birds we registered on the way up to the Elephant Caves: African Dusky Flycatcher, Thick-billed Seedeater, Mountain Buzzard, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, Brown-headed Apalis, African Hill Babbler, Mbulu White-eye, Black Cuckooshrike, Grey-capped Warbler, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Schalow´s Turaco, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater and Sharpe´s Starling. We had breakfast at the Elephant caves and started our walk down to the car. We did not add any new species before we came to the bottom and the guys found Eastern Crested Guineafowl where I told them to be found. We headed for Nanja and Lake Eluanata. Once there, we observed the following species: Northern Pied Babbler, African Marsh Harrier, Black-winged Kite, Coqui Francolin, Quailfinch, Red-billed Teal, Southern Pochard, Fulvous Whistling Duck, Blue-billed Teal, Ruff, Red-knobbed Coot and Whiskered Tern. We drove home and had Grey Olive Greenbul and Red-throated Twinspot in my garden.
Some pictures from Day 5:
Grey-capped Warbler, Eminia lepida
Sharpe´s Starling, Pholia sharpii
The Elephant Caves on the Endoro Trail.
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Melaenornis fischeri, Race nyikensis
Northern Pied Babbler, Turdoides hypoleuca, Endemic to Kenya and Tanzania
Fulvous Whistling Duck, Dendrocygna bicolor
White-faced Whistling Duck, Dendrocygna viduata
Spur-winged Goose, Plectropterus gambensis
Quailfinch, Ortygospiza atricollis
Red-billed Teal, Anas erythrorhyncha
Day 6, Saturday, March 1: Kiligolf – Arusha National Park – Kiligolf
Arusha National Park is quite close to my house, so we did not start too early. We were at the gates around 08:20. Here are some of the birds we registered from the gate and on the Ngurduto Crater: Olive Sunbird, Olive-headed (Stripe-faced) Greenbul, Black-headed Apalis, White-eared Barbet, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Waller´s Starling, Broad-ringed White-eye, Hartlaub´s Turaco and Ashy Flycatcher. From the museum and around the lakes: Reed Cormorant, Common Buzzard, Tambourine Dove, Scaly Spurfowl, Eurasian Blackcap, Western Marsh Harrier, Cape Teal, Pied Avocet, Common Ringed Plover, Greater and Lesser Flamingo, Palm-nut Vulture and Great Egret. Up Mount Meru we added Brown Woodland Warbler, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, White-starred Robin and Abyssinian Thrush. On Little Serengeti: Marabou Stork and Trilling Cisticola. On the way home: Southern Black Flycatcher.
Some Pictures from Day 6,
Black-and-white Colobus Monkey, Cercopithecidae colobus
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Melaenornis fischeri
Ruff, Calidris pugnax
Three young handsome Norwegians at the Water fall on Mount Meru.
African Dusky Flycatcher, Muscicapa adusta
Trilling Cisticola, Cisticola woosnami
Day 7, Saturday, March 2: Kiligolf – Masai Steppes – Shambalaya Dam – Kiligolf
We had an early start again and found White Stork and Lanner Falcon on the way. Where the tar road ends North of Mererani, we started birding for real. Here are some of the species we registered: Pink-breasted Lark, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Chestnut Sparrow, Hildebrandt´s Starling, Pied Wheatear, Tsavo Sunbird, Black-throated Barbet, Pygmy Batis, Malachite Kingfisher, White-throated Robin, Scaly Chatterer, Hunter´s Sunbird and Black-capped Social Weaver. We turned around and drove towards the Shambalaya Dam. Here are some of the species registered: Black-chested Snake Eagle, African Openbill, Spur-winged Lapwing, Black Heron, African Swamphen, Black-headed Heron, African Hawk-Eagle and African Fish Eagle. We returned home.
Some pictures from Day 7:
D´Arnaud´s Barbet, Trachyphonus darnaudii, Endemic to East Africa
Scaly Chatterer, Argya aylmeri, Endemic to NE Africa
Pink-breasted Lark, Calendulauda poecilosterna, Endemic to NE Africa
Red-tailed Shrike, Lanius phoenicuroides
African Hawk-Eagle, Aquila spilogaster
Black-headed Heron with Red spitting Cobra, Ardea melanocephala
Whiskered Tern, Chlidonias hybrida
Day 8, Sunday March 3: Kiligolf – Meru Forest – Ngarasero Lodge – Kalinga Forest- Kiligolf.
We had a slow morning with Breakfast at home. Our first visit were to Meru Forest: We picked up: Speke´s Weaver, Hunter´s Cisticola and Mountain Buzzard. We stopped briefly by Ngarasero Lodge and added Grey Olive Greenbul and African Black Duck. We had lunch in Usa River before, we went to Kalinga Forest. Here are some of the birds we added in Kalinga Forest: Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, Crowned Hornbill, Rüppel´s Robin-Chat, Forest Batis, Green Malkoha, Hartlaub´s Turaco, Black-headed Apalis, Retz´s Helmetshrike, Narina Trogon, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Black-fronted Bushshrike and Kenrick´s Starling.
We returned home and I packed the car.
Some pictures from Day 8:
Mountain Buzzard, Buteo oreophilus, Endemic to NE Africa
The boys found a Chameleon in Meru Forest
Retz´s Helmetshrike, prionops retzii
Day 9, Monday, March 4, 2025: Kiligolf, Nyumba ya Mungu Dam, South Pare Mountains, Elephant Motel, Same.
Just as we left that morning I saw a Western Barn Owl in my garden. The drive went smooth through Moshi and we took of to Nyumba Ya Mungu Dam. On the way to the dam, we picked up Osprey and Olive Bee-eater. Here are some of the species we registered on the dam: Great White and Pink-backed Pelican, Water Thick-knee, Grey-headed Gull, White-breasted Cormorant, African Skimmer, Curlew Sandpiper and Kittlitz´s Plover. We continued towards Same and found a Grasshopper Buzzard perched near the road. We had lunch at Elephant Motel and at 15:00 we headed for South Pare Mountains. Here are some of the birds we registered: South Pare White-eye, Moustached Tinkerbird, Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, African Stonechat, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, African Yellow Warbler, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Wahlberg´s Eagle, Yellow Bishop, Pin-tailed Whydah, Cinnamon-bracken Warbler, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Black-fronted Bushshrike and African Red-rumped Swallow. We returned to Elephant Motel, freshened up, had dinner and retired as usual early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 9:
Grasshopper Buzzard, Butastur rufipennis
Wahlberg´s Eagle, Hieraaetus wahlbergi
Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Cinnyris usambaricus, Endemic to NE Tanzania and SE Kenya
South Pare White-eye, Zosterops winifredae, Endemic to Pare Mountains in Tanzania
Day 10, Tuesday, March 5, 2025: Same – Magamba Forest, West Usambara
We had a short drive to our birding destination that morning. Here are some of the birds we registered: Black-bellied Sunbird, Parrot-billed Sparrow, Lanner Falcon, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Brown-tailed Apalis, Tiny Cisticola, Grey Wren-Warbler, Bare-eyed Thrush, Eastern Black-headed Batis, Red-headed Weaver, Red-fronted Prinia, Purple Grenadier, Slate-coloured Boubou, Lesser Striped Swallow, Long-tailed Paradise Whydah, Black-headed Oriole, Grey-headed Bushshrike, Lesser Honeyguide, Tawny Eagle, Golden Pipit, European and Purple Roller and Augur Buzzard. We continued towards Mombo and took the old German road up the mountain. As normal, we stopped just before Soni and picked up: East Coast Boubou, Cabanis´s Bunting, Mocking Cliff Chat and Grey-olive Greenbul. We stocked up in Soni and drove all the way up to our camp in Magamba Forest. Here are some of the birds we registered on our afternoon walk: White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, Spot-throat, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Usambara Akalat, Cape Robin-Chat, African Black Swift, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul and Usambara Thrush. I had made a chicken Casserole and we enjoyed next to the Bonfire. We retired early to bed:
Some pictures from Day 10:
Black-bellied Sunbird, Cinnyris nectaronoides, Endemic to East Africa
Parrot-billed Sparrow, Passer gongongensis, Endemic to NE Africa.
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Merops persicus
Red-fronted Prinia, Prinia rufifrons, Endemic to NE Africa
Long-tailed Paradise Whydah, Vidua paradisaea
Grey Wren-Warbler, Calamonastes simplex, Endemic to NE Africa
Lanner Falcon, Falco biarmicus
European Roller, Coracias garrulus
Purple Roller, Coracias naevius
Camp in Magamba
Day 11, Wednesday, March 6, 2025: Magamba Forest, West Usambara
On the morning walk we recorded amongst others these species: African Hill Babbler, African Olive Pigeon, White-starred Robin, Cape Robin-Chat, Usambara Weaver, Grey Cuckooshrike, Shelley´s Greenbul, Southern Yellow White-eye, Fülleborn´s Boubou, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Southern Citril and Red-faced Crimsonwing. We had breakfast and relaxed. The weather were unstable. at 14:00 we had an overflying Ayre´s Hawk-Eagle. For the afternoon walk we choose another Forest. I had my best ever view of a Spot-throat. In addition we added Cabanis´s Greenbul at night we got an African Wood-Owl.
Some pictures from Day 11:
African Hill Babbler, Sylvia abyssinica
Grey Cuckooshrike, Ceblepyris caesius
Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Arizelocichla nigriceps, Endemic to East Africa
Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Female, Cinnyris usambaricus. Endemic to NE Tanzania and SE Kenya
Usambara Thrush, Turdus roehli, Endemic to Usambara and Pare Mountains of Tanzania
Spot-throat, Modulatrix stictigula, Endemic to Eastern Arc Mountains of Tanzania and N Malawi
Day 12, Thursday, March 7, 2025: Magamba Forest West Usambara to Amani Forest East Usambara.
The morning walk in Magamba yielded two new species: Forest Batis and Montane Tiny Greenbul. The car were packed, we stopped to grab some Samosas in Segera and continued to a little North of Muheza. Here we registered Coastal Cisticola. On the way up to the head quarter we found a streamside Half-collared Kingfisher. We birded the Botanical Garden that afternoon and added: Pale Batis, Trumpeter Hornbill, African Green Pigeon, Green Barbet, Klaas´s Cuckoo, Red-tailed Ant Thrush and White-browed Robin-Chat.
We freshened up, had dinner at the restaurant and retired early to bed.
One Picture from Day 12:
Green Barbet, Cryptolybia olivacea
Day 13, Friday March 8, 2025: Amani Forest, East Usambara
We drove uphill that morning. Here are some of the birds we registered at our first stop: Black-bellied Starling, Little Greenbul, Green-headed Oriole, Fischer´s Turaco, Purple-banded Sunbird, Mountain Wagtail and Kretschmer´s Longbill. We drove to the spot for Sharpe´s Akalat, but could not find it. We got Yellow-streaked and Cabanis´s Greenbul. On the way down, we were shocked that a huge tree had fallen over the road. My guide contacted a local man and I were extremely impressed by the way he could handle and ax. Ken took a motor cycle Taxi to camp while Jørgen decided to walk. The local guy and me with a tow rope managed to get the tree away in record time in order for all of us to enjoy lunch in camp. Later the afternoon, we drove to another place and the only new bird we picked up that afternoon were a Little Rush Warbler. We had packed the car after lunch and drove down to Zigi Guest House. We had dinner and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 13:
Kretchemer´s Longbill, Macrosphenus kreschmeri
What to do? Nowhere to go!
Day 14, Saturday, March 9, 2025: Zigi Forest East Usambara.
We drove early down to Zigi Forest. Here are some of the birds we observed in the morning: Estern Nicator, Red-throated Twinspot, Tanzanian Illadopsis, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Green Malkoha, Black-headed Apalis, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Pallid Honeyguide, Crowned Hornbill, Green Tinkerbird, Lowland Tiny Greenbull and Crowned Eagle. It were getting too hot, so we drove back to Camp. In the afternoon, we drove down again, but did not add any new species. We had dinner and retired early to bed.
No pictures from Day 14
Day 15, Sunday March 10, 2025: Zigi Guesthouse to Kiligolf
We birded on the road down Zigi Forest. Here are some of the new birds we observed: Dark-backed Weaver, Mombasa Woodpecker, Lowland Tiny Greenbul, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Little Spotted Woodpecker, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Little Greenbul and Plain-backed Sunbird. We stopped North of Muheza and added Lizard Buzzard. We dropped our guide and drove home to Kiligolf about a 6 hour drive. We arrived in good time before dark. My maid had made dinner and we enjoyed and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 15:
Little Yellow Flycatcher, Erythrocercus holochlorus, Endemic to NE Africa
Lowland Tiny Greenbul, Phyllastrephus debilis, Endemic to East Africa
Day 16, Monday, March 11, 2025: Kiligolf to Airport
We had a morning walk again on Kiligolf and picked up quite a few species. The only new ones were Purple Heron and Crimson-rumped Waxbill. We came home for breakfast and the guys got ready to go to the airport.
Some pictures from Day 16:
Spotted Flycatcher, Muscicapa striata
Long-tailed Fiscal, Lanius cabanisi, Endemic to NE Africa
Time to say goodbye. Thanks for a nice trip Ken and Jørgen.
It was indeed a nice trip. Nice for me to catch up on my Norwegian again. We registered a total of 471 species. Jørgen is a Bird Photographer and I have no idea how many new species he added. Ken had a target list of 79 species were we managed to get him 63. After that trip, I have done two trips first with a couple from Netherlands and then with a couple from Portugal. Already on May 14 I will get a couple from South Africa visiting. Stay tuned for more trip reports.