My English friend Fernley arrived on November 12 this year. He had a Southern Highland trip booked on November 29, so I had do come up with a logistical plan to cover as much of Tanzania that he would not get on his Southern Highland trip. I had warned him that it included lots of driving. It were natural to do the Arusha area and Usambaras, but then a long drive to our next destination Kitulo National Park and then past Tunduma to Laela and the border to Zambia before he flew from Mbeya via Dar es Salaam to Pemba Island on the afternoon on November 26. I had organised everything for him on Pemba. He returned from Pemba on November 28th in time to join his Southern Highland trip. This report is about the 14+ days he spent with me.
Day 1, Wednesday, November 12: Arusha Airport to Kiligolf and home.
Fernley arrived from Dar to Arusha airport in the afternoon. He were ready to bird, so we did an afternoon trip to Kiligolf and amongst others recorded these species: Crested Francolin, Tambourine Dove, Black Crake, Green Sandpiper, Hamerkop, Yellow-billed Egret, Blue-naped and Speckled Mousebird, Trumpeter Hornbill, Giant Kingfisher, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Tropical Boubou, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Pale White-eye, Superb Starling, Rüppel’s Robin-Chat, Spotted Palm Thrush, Scarlet-chested, Gorgeous and Variable Sunbird, Purple Grenadier, Red-billed Firefinch, Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow, Chestnut Weaver and Reichenow’s Seedeater. Since Fernley had been to Kenya, we started the first afternoon with 0 lifers.
Day 2, Thursday, November 13: Home, Lark Plains, Lengijave and Kiligolf.
We went first to Lark Plains Maans Boysen were around too. He needed Somali Short-toed Lark so he joined us. Fernley had most of the dry country species from Kenya, so we focused on his targets and found Beesley’s Lark, Somali Short-toed Lark and Short-tailed Lark. Those were the only three birds we needed. Some of the other birds we observed on Lark Plains included: Chestnut-belllied Sandgrouse, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Montague’s Harrier, Augur Buzzard, Greater Kestrel, Common Kestrel, Lanner Falcon, Rosy-patched Bushshrike, Taita Fiscal, Red-capped Lark, Red-fronted Prinia, Banded Parisoma, Hildebrandt’s Starling, White-bellied Canary, Capped and Isabelline Wheatear. We then drove to Lengijave where we had one target: Lyne’s Cisticola. We found the target easy. Some of the other birds we obseved in Lengijave included: White-fronted Bee-eater, Long-billed Pipit, Yellow-crowned Canary, Abyssinian Wheatear, Black Bishop, Kenya Sparrow, Streaky Seedeater and Southern Citril. We had a quick lunch in Usa River, stopped for the Taveta Weaver and drove to Kiligolf again. No new lifers for Fernley.
Some pictures from Day 2:
Beesley’s Lark, Chersomanes beesleyi, Endemic to a small area North of Arusha, Tanzania
Somali Short-toed Lark, Alaudala somalica, Endemic to E Africa
Maans, Me and Fernley
Malachite Kingfisher, Corythornis cristatus
Sombre Greenbul, Andropadus importunus
Day 3, Friday, November 14: Arusha National Park
We were at the gate around 07:30. For once the registration went smooth. Fernley went birding with my guide and they got Bronze and Golden-winged Sunbird. We started driving towards the museum and picked up Trilling Cisticola, Moustached Grass Warbler and Scaly Spurfowl. We exited the car at the museum. It were quite birdy there and some of the species we registered included: Black-headed Apalis, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, White-eared Barbet, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Short-tailed Batis, Narina Trogon, Green Malkoha, Black-fronted Cuckooshrike, Olive-headed Greenbul, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Kenrick’s and Waller’s Starling. We continued up to the picnic spot on Ngurduto Crater and added Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater on the way. At the picnic stop: Broad-ringed White-eye and Hartlaub’s Turaco. We drove down the crater and towards the Momella lakes. Not much to see on the way, but around the lakes, we added Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Ruff, Little Stint, Great Cormorant, Western Marsh Harrier, Southern Pochard, Cape Teal, Sentinel Lark and Orange-breasted Waxbill. On the way from the lake Short-winged Cisticola. We drove home.
Some pictures from Day 3:
Suni Antilope, Nesotragus moschatus
Sykes’ Monkey, Cercopithecus mitis albogularis
Rüppel’s Robin-Chat, Cossypha semirufa, Endemic to NE Africa
Sentinel Lark, Corypha athi, Endemic to N Tanzania and Kenya
Greater Flamingo, Phoenicopterus roseus
Day 4, Saturday, November 15: Tarangire National Park to Karatu
We started early that morning as normal we found Rufous-tailed Weaver and Silverbird before we entered the park. Fernley and my guide birded the entrance area while I paid and added Ashy Starling, Yellow-collared Lovebird and Swahili Sparrow. Some of the other birds we observed in Tarangire that day included: Yellow-necked and Red-necked Spurfowl, Bare-faced and White-bellied Go-away-bird, White-bellied and Buff-crested Bustard, Yellow-throated and Black-faced Sandgrouse, Water Thick-knee, Pied Avocet, Three-banded Plover, Double-banded Courser, Collared Pratincole, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Secretarybird, Black-winged Kite, Lappet-faced and White-backed Vulture, Bateleur, Wahlberg’s, Steppe and Tawny Eagle, African Hawk-Eagle, Green Wood Hoopoe, Von der Decken’s and Northern Red-billed Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller, European Bee-eater, Red-and-yellow and D’Arnaud’s Barbet, Greater Honeyguide, Grey Kestrel, Magpie Shrike, Long-tailed Fiscal, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Northern Pied Babbler, Red-billed Oxpecker, Speckle-fronted Weaver, White-headed and Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Cut-throat Finch, and Blue-capped Cordon-bleu. We exited the park, drove to Karatu. Fernley and I went out to look for and found Fischer’s Lovebird.
Some pictures from Day 4
Cheetah, Acinonyx jubatus
Ashy Starling, Lamprotornis unicolor, Endemic to Tanzania and Masai Mara in Kenya
Rufous-tailed Weaver, Histurgops ruficauda, Endemic to Tanzania and Masai Mara in Kenya
Secretarybird, Sagittarius serpentarius
Black-faced Sandgrouse, Pterocles decoratus, Endemic to NE Africa
Female, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Pterocles gutturalis
Day 5, Sunday, November 16: Endoro Trail, Karatu – Lake Eluanata, Nanja
Before we reached the trail, we had nice view of Hildebrandt’s Spurfowl. We started on the trail. On the trail we registered amongst others: Brown-headed Apalis, Cape Robin-Chat, Grey and Purple-throated Cuckooshrike, Grey-capped Warbler, Red-faced Cisticola, Black Saw-wing, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Grey-olive Greenbul, African Hill Babbler, Mbulu White-eye, Collared, Green-headed, Olive, Eastern Double-collared and Variable Sunbird, Abyssinian Crimsonwing, Mountain Wagtail and Thick-billed Seedeater. We got most of our targets and continued to Lake Elyanata. We drove first in the grasslands and found Coqui Francolin and Desert Cisticola. Then we drove down to the lake and for the first time ever, the lake had absolutely no water! No water, no water birds. We drove home.
Some pictures from Day 5
Hildebrandt’s Spurfowl, Pternistis hildebrandti
Eastern Double-collared Sunbird, Cinnyris mediocris, Endemic to Tanzania and Kenya
Variable Sunbird, Cinnyrus venestus
Green-headed Sunbird, Cyanomitra verticallis
Day 6, Monday, November 17: Home – South Pare Mountains – Same
We started early and arrived in good time in Same to do a little birding. Here are some of the birds we observed before lunch: Black-bellied Sunbird, Grey-headed Bushshrike, Eastern Black-headed Batis, Common Rock Thrush and Fischer’s Starling. We drove to the hotel, had lunch and at 3 we were on our way to South Pare Mountains. Here are some of the birds we registered up there: Hartlaub’s Turaco, African Yellow Warbler, Common Buzzard, Black-fronted Bushshrike, African Hill babbler, Bar-throated Apalis, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, African Stonechat, African Dusky Flycatcher, Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Cinnamon-bracken Warbler, Evergreen Forest Warbler, South Pare White-eye, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Black Saw-wing, Singing Cisticola, Southern Citril and Black-headed Apalis. We drove down the mountain and to our hotel.
Some pictures from Day 6:
Black-bellied Sunbird, Cinnyris nectarinioides, Endemic to NE Africa
South Pare White-eye, Zosterops winifredae, Endemic to Pare Mountains, Tanzania
Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Cinnyris usambaricus, Endemic to Eastern Arch Mountains of Tanzania and Taita Hills, Kenya
Southern Citril, Chritagra hyposticta
Day 7, Tuesday, November 18: Same to Magamba Forest, West Usambara
As normal, we birded the area near Same in the morning. We saw quite a few birds including: Harlequin Quail, Pink-breasted Lark, Grey Wren Warbler, Bare-eyed Thrush, Eastern Violet-backed, Tsavo and Hunter’s Sunbird, Green-winged Pytilia, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Hildebrandt’s Starling, Spotted Palm Thrush, Slate-coloured Boubou and Red-backed Shrike. We returned to the hotel for breakfast and were soon on our way to Magamba. We stopped in Soni for groceries and then headed straight to the our camp at the old Sawmill in Magamba forest. We set up camp and started birding. On the first afternoon we registered amongst other birds: Waller’s Starling, Sharpe’s Starling, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, Usambara Double-collared Sunbird, Fülleborn’s Boubou, Black Saw-wing, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Southern Yellow White-eye, Mottled Spinetail, African Black Duck, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, African Olive Pigeon, Bar-throated Apalis, White-starred Robin, White-chested Alethe, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Red-capped Forest Warbler, Usambara Akalat, Olive Woodpecker, Spot-throat, Usambara Thrush, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, Fork-tailed Drongo, Red-faced Crimsonwing, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo and at night African Wood Owl. I cooked Dinner for us and since we had a fantastic first day with all the targets except for the Usambara Weaver, we were discussing at night to leave after just one night and only do morning birding the day after.
Some pictures from Day 7:
Grey-headed Kingfisher, Halcyon leucocephala
Green-winged Pytilia, Pytilia melba
Red-backed Shrike, Lanius collurio
Hildebrandt’s Starling, Lamprotornis hildebrandti, Endemic to Tanzania and Kenya
Spotted Palm Thrush, Cichladusa guttata, Endemic to NE Africa
Grey Wren Warbler, Calamonastes simplex, Endemic to NE Africa
Olive Woodpecker, Dendropicos griseocephalus
Day 8, Wednesday, November 19: Magamba Forest, West Usambara to Amani Forest, East Usambara
We had coffee at 06:45. Then we started our morning birding. My guide and I saw Usambara Weaver, but unfortunately not Fernley. Other new birds for Magamba that morning included Tambourine Dove, Cabanis’s Greenbul, Bar-tailed Trogon and African Dusky Flycatcher. We packed camp and were soon heading for Amani Forest. As usual, we stopped just north of Muheza. There we picked up Eastern Golden Weaver, Black-winged Red Bishop, Green Tinkerbird and Coastal Cisticola. We drove up to Amani Head quarters and had time for some afternoon birding. Here are some of the species observed that afternoon: Green Barbet, Black-and-white Mannikin, Long-crested Eagle, Little Swift, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Red-throated Rock Martin, Green Tinkerbird, Trumpeter Hornbill, East Coast Boubou, Olive Sunbird, White-eared Barbet, Purple-banded Sunbird, Banded Sunbird, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Amethyst Sunbird and Brown-hooded Kingfisher. We returned to the HQ, freshened up, had dinner and retired early to bed.
Some pictures from Day 8:
Bar-throated Apalis, Apalis thoracica, Race griseiceps
African Black Duck, Anas sparsa
Long-crested Eagle, Lophaetus occipitalis
Day 9, Thursday, November 20: Amani Forest to Zigi Forest.
As always, we went up from camp that morning. Stopped at our normal spot. As usual it were quiet. However; we did pick up amongst others: Green-headed Oriole, Dark-backed Weaver, Fischer’s Turaco, Square-tailed Drongo, Shelley’s Greenbul, Tambourine Dove and Little Greenbul. We went back to the car and as on command the Long-billed Forest Warbler started calling. Fernly and my guide went to find it, whilst I went in search of the Kretschemr’s Longbill. I found it and got the others that had seen the Forest Warbler. Took them up and called out the Longbill. I fetched the car and we headed for Kwamkori. A pleasant surprise were that the fallen trees that had blocked the road on many previous visits were now removed in order for me to drive all the way up were we normally start the birding. Here are some of the birds we recorded in Kwamkori: Trumpeter and Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Green-headed Oriole, African Goshawk, Olive Sunbird, African Paradise Flycatcher, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Sharpe’s Akalat, Montane Tiny Greenbul, Half-collared Kingfisher and Palm-nut Vulture. We drove back to the Head Quarter and had lunch. After lunch, we drove down to Zigi Forest. On one of the bridges, we had nice views of the Half-collared Kingfisher. We reached the forest and started birding: Tambourine Dove, Lowland Tiny Greenbul, Square-tailed Drongo, Crowned Hornbill, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Black-headed Apalis and Red-tailed Ant Thrush. We drove up to Zigi guest house, freshened up and had dinner.
Some pictures from Day 9:
Kreschmer’s Longbill, Macrosphenus kretschmeri
Palm-nut Vulture, Gypohierax angolensis
Day 10, Friday, November 21: Zigi Forest East Usambara via Wami Bridge to Hondo Hondo Camp in Kilombero Valley.
We packed the car knowing we had a long drive ahead of us. We did morning birding in Zigi and added the following species: African Emerald Cuckoo, Fischer’s Starling, Tanzanian Illadopsis, Pallid Honeyguide, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Green Twinspot, Plain-backed Sunbird, Short-tailed Batis, Green Tinkerbird, Mombasa Woodpecker and Little Yellow Flycatcher. We had then reached the end of Zigi Forest and got in the car for the long drive. We stopped at the Wami River and I were happy to find a breeding colony of Ruvu Weavers. We did not have much time, but my guide managed to find the other target: Böhm’s Bee-eater. We rushed back to the car, and continued driving. We reached Hondo Hondo camp late afternoon. We went to Magombera Forest late in the afternoon searching for Pel’s Fishing Owl without any luck.
No pictures from Day 10
Day 11, Saturday, November 22: Hondo Hondo Camp to The Old Farm House, Kisolanza
We did morning birding around Hondo Hondo Camp. We dipped on the Lesser Seedcracker. Some of the birds we observed included: Lizard Buzzard, Malachite Kingfisher, Blue Waxbill, Magpie Mannikin, Black-and-white Mannikin, Yellow-fronted Canary, Lilac-breasted Roller, Village Weaver, Eastern Golden Weaver and Orange-breasted Waxbill. We had breakfast and were soon on our way to Kisolanza. We added Martial Eagle on our way. We arrived in Kisolanza before 16:00 in good time for some afternoon birding. The boys went out while I were busy setting up camp. I birded just around Camp by myself. Here are some of the birds I observed: Purple-crested Turaco, White-browed Robin-Chat, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Tree Pipit, Brimstone Canary, Scaly Spurfowl, Striped Pipit, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Brown-headed Apalis and at night African Wood Owl. I cooked dinner and we retired early.
Some pictures from Day 11:
Juvenile, Malachite Kingfisher, Corythornis cristatus
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Melaenornis fischeri
White-browed Robin-Chat, Cossypha heuglini
Striped Pipit, Anthus lineiventris
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Uraeginthus bengalus
White-browed Scrub Robin, Cercotrichas leucophrys
Brown-headed Apalis, Apalis alticola
Cooking at Kisolanza
Day 12, Sunday, November 23: Kisolanza to Kitulo National Park
We birded around Kisolanza in the morning. We dipped on our main target, Whyte’s Barbet. I only registered a few birds that morning: Little Rush Warbler, Little Grebe, Crowned Lapwing and Holub’s Golden Weaver. We had breakfast and started our drive to Kitulo. After the climb up, we arrived at the entrance of the gate just before 4. The boys went out and birded while I paid entrance fee. The added Black-lored and Churring Cisticola. We quickly set up camp and then started birding. Here are some of the birds we registered that afternoon: Black-lored and Churring Cisticola, Yellow-browed Seedeater, Plateau Lark, Fülleborn’s Longclaw, Montane Widowbird and Cape Robin-Chat. We returned to camp. I cooked and we retired early to bed.
One picture from Day 12:
Montane Widowbird, Euplectes psammacromius
Day 13, Monday, November 24: Kitulo National Park via Rungwe Forest to Mbeya.
We drove from Camp through the park. Fernley had not seen the Fülleborn’s Longclaw, so we were taking some off roads into likely habitat, but no luck. We exited the park and had time to scout for an endemic Monkey in the Rungwe area. We finally found a ranger and he told us it would be a tough hike early in the morning and we did not have time to sleep one night. I needed some repairs done on my car so we stopped in Mbeya and found a nice guest house there.
Some pictures from Day 13:
Yellow-browed Seed-eater, Crithagra whytii
Augur Buzzard, Buteo augur
Day 14, Tuesday, November 25: Mbeya via Utengule Coffee Lodge via Laela to Saise River on the border to Zambia.
It turned out the car were not properly fixed, so I dropped the guys at Utengule Coffee Lodge and returned to the garage. After the fix, I picked them up and we headed for Laela. We then drove down to the Saise River. We drove alongside the river and here are some of the birds we registered: Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Harlaub’s Babbler, Fülleborn’s Longclaw, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Brown Firefinch, Coppery-tailed Coucal, Wattled Starling, Pale-throated Greenbul, Copper Sunbird, African Wattled Lapwing and Pale-crowned Cisticola. We found a camp site and I set up camp while the boys went out birding. They returned to camp set up and the cooking were underway. We had dinner and retired early to our tents.
Some pictures from Day 14:
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Merops persicus
Pale-crowned Cisticola, Cisticola cinnamomeus
Coppery-tailed Coucal, Centropus cupreicaudus
Brown Firefinch, Lagonosticta nitidula
Fülleborn’s Longclaw, Macronyx fuelleborni
Camp on the Saise River.
Day 15, Wednesday, November 26: Saise River to Mbeya.
We did some morning birding along the river. I added Yellow-billed Duck. We packed camp, drove towards Laella and stopped at some Miombo Woodland in search of Miombo Pied Barbet. At the first stop, no success, but at the second stop, we observed two birds. My guide had never been to Saise River before so he were also happy to add some lifers. We continued to Mbeya Airport were I dropped Fernely off. He were flying to Pemba via Dar es Salaam. I had organised the trip for him with guide, transport and lodging. My guide and I continued to Mbeya were we found a guest house for the night.
Some pictures from Day 15:
Yellow-billed Duck, Anas undulata
Wattled Lapwing, Vanellus senegallus
Miombo Pied Barbet, Tricholaema frontata
Goodbye to Fernley.
I had a long drive home the following days with some detours to Tabora, Mwanza, Dar es Salaam and Tanga. I did not arrive home before December 7. The birding trip it self were a success despite the enormous distances covered. We registered a total of 442 species looking for Fernley’s Targets. He registered 75 lifers. That were the last trip in 2025. Next year will start with a couple of Tanzania trips in January and then I have no less than 6 trips to Kenya startting in March booked. I still have some openings in July, August, September and December 2026. Stay tuned for more reports.